Friday, 23 March 2012

Great spring and summer cotton or linen jacket in blue


Wanted to share with you a more summery look as the weather has taken a turn for the better.

Seen this great jacket surfing the web and thought would share with you a really stylish way to stay relaxed and cool but with a twist. Cottons and linens have been worn for generations as a versatile and fabric that breaths well. But with a couple of touches here and there you can add your own individual twist.

The cream mother of pearl buttons really work for me on this. Horn buttons will work fine but be very boring. But go to a local haberdasher and find some great buttons that hint at your personality and put those on instead.

The edges are stitched which break up simple style of the jacket.

The patch pockets here make it more casual, but you can do piped for a more trendy look, or add flaps to make more formal.

A white silk pocket square (always contrast if possible to the fabric in the garment as it creates opposing textures which stand out more) and a flower lapel pin/button adds that extra quip of character.

Enjoy The season in style.

 

Thursday, 15 March 2012

Street Style 15th March 2012: London

 

My good friend Charles looking smart in a grey herringbone two piece with peak edge stitched lapels and horn buttons. The shirt is also a herringbone in blue with cuttaway spread collar and married with a black knit wool tie.

Wednesday, 14 March 2012

Street Style 14th March 2012: London

 

I'm not making any huge waves with tis outfit I know but thought would show what I am wearing this morning. Not easily seen is a contrast collar as the the shirt is a very faint blue pencil stripe. Grey sharkskin three piece, ox blood Alfred Sergent shoes and a cotton pocket handkerchief. 

Tuesday, 13 March 2012

Street style 13th March 2012: London

Saw this well dressed chap just outside my building and couldn't resist asking him to stop as he was dressed rather well. My camera on my iPad does not do him justice and am still finding my feet with asking people to pose so please offer advice for this sort of thing.

He has a Loro Piana fabric subtle chalk stripe suit on, with a contrasting shirt/collar mix and a elegant tie. 

Trolling the Charity (Thrift) stores

I'm not suggesting this is an option for myself or even you but there are a lot of guys starting out in business that can not afford £300 - £500 ($500+) for suits and ties and all the rest of it. And for me buying a decent jacket that can be worn out on a weekend may be worth a cheaper £10 flutter on a good make and fabric then spending £100 on a cheap dead in 6 months high street shop.

But I am the layman here in so many ways and know a few readers are on the same forums as I am and discuss this. But only in the States. 

So please let me know what you think. Good idea, bad idea? Good finds? Where are good shops?

A big one is: What to look for? There are a lot of good quality items that are being donated by a caring owner and may be perfect for you but what brands, makes are good to look out for.

I know our American cousins have a much bigger time of the Thrift store experience so value your input too guys.

 

Let us know what you think guys. Comment below.

Sunday, 11 March 2012

Street Style 9th March 2012: Huddersfield

 

Just before setting out to see three fantastic fabric facilities in Huddersfield. Clissolds the textile mill which mill and design men's suits, etc..., Pennine Weavers the textile weavers and W. T. Johnson & Sons the textile finishers. Fantastic day and wore a brown jacket (got married in its that old), wide spread shirt, brown wool tie, four point cotton handkerchief, dark jeans, and brown suede shoes (although you can't see last two items).

Let me know what you think and comment below.

Friday, 9 March 2012

Visiting W. T. Johnson & Sons: Part 2

A drying process at the textile finishers W. T. Johnson & Sons

 

After the scouring the fabric needs to be dried to go on to the cropping part of the process.


This is where the the fabric is removed of surface fibres depending on the requirements of the client. 

 

 Let me know what you think and comment below.

Visiting W. T. Johnson & Sons: Part 1

Visited the finest textile finishers in the world today at W. T. Johnson & Sons in Huddersfield. Had a personal tour around for my colleagues and me and saw the processes that some of the finest cloths on the world go through to obtain the finish wished for by the fabric merchant. 

 

 

We got to see the four stages of finishing that cloth merchants fabrics such as Holland & Sherry, Dormieul, Scabal, H. Lesser & Sons, etc..

 

The four stages are scouring, cropping, setting and pressing. 

The scouring can be done to suit the type and quality of the textile. A simple British wool rug may just get a rope scouting and a drying and that will be enough. 

 

But for a linen or a cashmere fabric then a much softer jet scouring will be used.


 Let me know what you think and comment below.

Thursday, 8 March 2012

Street Style 8th March 2012: London

My colleague rocking the bow tie. I know this isn't really street style but loving what some of the chaps around me are wearing. 

Let me know what you think and comment below.

Must have accessories - What pen to have: part 3

So some simple choices now. Fountain, ball point or roller? 

Fountain is a style of pen that has been around for many years and can date its basic design and practice from the quill. Early examples may originate in the 10th century but not until the late 19th century did the modern day fountain pen start to blossom. 

You have to love fountain pens to use them exclusively. Like marmite. Today's fountain pens are nowhere near as messy and annoying to refill but are still a trifle finickety as opposed to a regular ball point. I would advise to get one if your heart desires and spend only £50 max to see if the simple weekly/monthly upkeep is for you. If not then go for something else.

 

 

Ballpoint. This simple device revolutionised the pen industry like never before. All of a sudden here was a pen that worked so efficently and could be made so cheaply that throwing it away after the ink had run out was not a problem. All pen makers will make their style of design in pens in at least fountain and ball point.

 

Rollerball. The difference between the ballpoint and the rollerball is the ink. Ballpoint ink is an oil based liquid that can, in cheaper products, skip or blob when writing. Rare in a reasonable pen. The rollerball ink is water based so writes more smoothly but must have a lid on when not in use as can evaporate if left off. Some rollerballs are refillable. 

 

Let me know what you think and comment below.

Wednesday, 7 March 2012

Your comments

Hey all Getting some really kind and encouraging emails from a lot of you, special mentions to Jonathan Pryce Daniel of Another Garcon and Guiseppe of An Affordable Wardrobe but am wanting a ton more of your views and suggestions via comments. You are the reason I do this so would love to show what you think. All I ask is you be straight up. Look forward to hearing from you. All comments will be replied to. Dan

Street Style 7th March 2012: London

Check charcoal jacket, today, with a white stripe shirt buttoned up, a black v-neck sweater and my favourite flat cap. Showing a client a casual look as we were picking out a great tweed fabric from Porter & Harding. 

 

Let me know what you think and comment below.

Tuesday, 6 March 2012

Must have accessories: What pen to have? - part 2

Choosing A Fountain Pen

by Peter Twydle

Many years ago, in the days when we owned a chain of specialist pen shops, our policy was to let the customer try as many different styles of pen and nib sizes they needed, in order to find just the right pen for them. A fountain pen is, after all, a very personal thing, being an extension of our own personality. In those days we could send our staff on a course run by The Parker Pen Company to teach them the correct way of selling a pen (a Parker - naturally). But times have changed. These courses no longer run, and with the exception of the few specialist pen shops still in existence, staff no longer have detailed knowledge of pens, nibs, and how they should be matched to individual writing styles. The situation is even more difficult now that pens are being sold on the internet and by mail order, as you can no longer even get to see, let alone handle the pen before buying. 
If you are looking for a fountain pen to use, either occasionally or on a regular basis, then the purpose of this article is to point out the criteria you should consider in order to make a more informed choice.
First - price. You can buy a fountain pen anywhere from a few pounds up to thousands.  The mentality that claims they may as well use a cheap throw-away ball pen because the end result is the same (and if you are reading this, then this obviously isn't you), may think twice before driving a thousand miles in an old banger rather than a Daimler. Both will get them there (probably) but one will do it with comfort and style.
With a fountain pen, the main difference in price is a reflection of the quality of the nib. Up to about £50 (I'll stick with GBP for the purposes of this article) nibs will be made of steel, which is harder, less flexible than gold and not as durable, since gold does not corrode. A gold-plated nib will take longer to corrode but will not be any more flexible. Once you get towards £100 you are looking at 14ct or 18ct gold nibs - the best there are. Above that, a £1000 pen will write no better than a £300 pen. The difference then will be in either the casing, being made of precious metals like gold and silver, or in the rarity value of the pen, such as a Special or Limited Edition. This is not a criteria when considering a pen for use on a daily basis when price is an issue. So, at today's prices you could buy a Parker Sonnet, for example, at around £150, which is the same size, same ink capacity and has the same nib as one at £90, the difference being in the finish of the body, in this example silver as opposed to lacquer.
So, as a general rule of thumb - up to £50 for a steel-nib pen. £100 - £300 for a gold-nib pen, and anything upwards from there for precious metals, Special and Limited Editions, and other rarity value, as in vintage pens.
Second - size. The next consideration is the actual size of the pen which, with the exception of Pelikan and Montblanc, does not equate to ink capacity. A £200 Parker will hold the same amount of ink as a £50.
I suppose it is a subjective matter as to how large you want your pen to be. Theoretically, it should be related to the size of your hand - big hand, big pen, small hand (ladies particularly) small pen. This is the best yardstick to go by unless you have the opportunity to handle many different sizes. In my own case I use a Pelikan M800 for signing letters or if I want to impress, but I find it too tiring for the long haul and use a standard 1950's Parker Duofold for writing articles such as this.
An average sized pen will measure about 5" with the cap on and about 5.5" with the cap posted as when writing. (People who prefer to put the cap to one side when writing are probably using a pen which is too heavy or too large for their hand). There are, of course, many variations on this, such as the old Pelikan 100, which is normal size when posted but whose cap comes almost halfway down the barrel when capped - ideal for clipping into a short pocket.
Some of the lesser known makes are made in unusual shapes and designs. This can often be a case of aesthetic appeal over function - they look good but don't feel too comfortable in the hand. There are exceptions of course, and once again it can be a subjective matter.
Third - ink capacity. If you do a lot of writing this can be important, not so important if you only sign the occasional letter. The big hitters in the capacity stakes are the plunger fillers, such as Pelikan and Montblanc, which can hold more than twice the volume of ink of the more common convertible filler/cartridge type, as could the old Parker Vacumatics. Sheaffer pens, particularly the old snorkel models, have always been notorious for low ink capacity. Even the large PFM only held an average amount.
Fourth - and probably the most important - the nib.
Nibs nowadays are not made as flexible as they used to be. This is mainly because of the way we write these days. The beautiful, flowing scripts of yesteryear have been replaced by the more curvaceous (and characterless) lettering taught in schools. Also, the ball point has a lot to answer for. I would not describe any modern pen as having a flexible nib in the way of the old Swans and Watermans. Semi-flexible is the most I would admit to.
Rigid nibs really came to the fore with the advent of the Parker 51 and are particularly good for the heavy handed, who tend to splay an open nib by exerting too much pressure. If you have a lighter touch then the more traditional type of nib may add more character to your writing.
Most important of all is the nib point. This is one area in which today's pens have definitely improved. Modern nibs are far smoother than their vintage counterparts, but the range of nib widths is not as great as in days gone by, being limited to only fine and medium in some of the cheaper models. At the top end of the ranges you can still find obliques, stubs, italics and extra broads, although these are often only supplied to special order. It should also be noted that manufacturers often have different ideas about point sizes. A Sheaffer stub, for example, would be equivalent to a Parker italic, whose stub would be more like a Pelikan double broad and so on. It is sometimes just not possible to get the nib you want from the manufacturer you prefer.
The finest fountain pen nib is called 'needlepoint'. This is usually intended for small figure work and would be too scratchy or not put enough ink to the paper for normal writing. The finest nib for writing is 'extra fine' but even then only if you do not write too quickly. After that come the two most popular points 'fine' and 'medium' followed by 'broad'. Some manufacturers continue with 'extra' or 'double broad' - even 'triple broad', but again, only at the top end of the market and mainly German makes.
Oblique nibs in 'fine', 'medium' and 'broad' are intended for wrtiters who habitually tilt their pen at an angle, as they are cut away to the left. 
The subject of oblique nibs is one that causes a lot of misunderstanding when choosing a nib. The problem arises because many writers on the subject have insisted on calling them 'left-handed' nibs. The truth of the matter is, it is not the hand you write with that is important, but the angle at which you hold the nib to the paper. When writing with a nib pen it is important that both points of the nib are flat to the paper. If the nib is tilted so that only one point touches, then the nib will skip when writing. Tilting the nib to left will therefore require a left-hand oblique. Tilting it to the right (less common) will warrant a right-oblique, but these are rarely found these days.
Writers who look to obliques to give thick and thin strokes may be disappointed by Pelikan nibs, which are more rounded, and would be better served by Sheaffer. 

The table below should give you some idea of the comparative nib widths, but keep in mind that individual widths can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Better quality nibs are usually finished off by hand, so even two medium nibs of the same make may not be identical.

Must have accessories - What pen to have as your sword?

To decide which pen to have as your aid in daily business and personal life has long been discussed. Whether to have a pen that is so vastly expensive you would not lend it to a loved one or colleague may seem over the top but please believe that as a status symbol only the wrist watch can compare in history, cost and design extravaganze. 

So, is the pen that important? As a practical application, yes of course. Having a good sturdy pen that can stand the test time and all of your life's events can be of immense value. But if you happen to be of a forgetful frame of mind then splashing out £500 ($800) each time would be absurd.

So if you are of the persuasion that the pen is a must have when it comes to style, quality and function then read on. If not then buy a biro and live happy.

 

So there are two areas that should be of importance to deciding. 

  1. Is the pen you want a luxury or a practical item?
  2. What do you use it for and how often?

If it is a luxury item then splash out and expect to pay anything from £400 to £40,000 if you so desired. But if just practical then spending anywhere from £50 to £200 is still gong to get good quality. 

 

What do you use it for and how often? Put it this way, if you use it for signing autographs on the red carpet then you may want to say a certain something. But think again about the private victory. Is it for showing off? Or is it for that day when you sign he contract that means security for life. You may want something really special when you dance that nib over the paper in agreement.  If it's for writing your partner love letters you may wish something more romantic and fantastical. 

 

To say there is a vast need for a pen as an image enhancer is probably not true anymore. Many times we gain fine things and baubles just to impress people we don't really like. But there is a private status that I think is important. And that is what I have heard termed a 'private victory'. In Stephen Covey's book 7 Habits of Highly Effective People he states that Private Victory must come before Public Victory. In short, if the success you have in life can not be an accolade you can be happy to keep to yourself then it will never be enough in public. In the film 'Cool Runnings' the coach, Irv, describes this private victory better then I.

 

"Derice, a gold medal is a wonderful thing. But if you're not enough without one, you'll never be enough with one."



So, as to the choices. For me the most important thing with accessories is to match or show your personality. Not essential, but If you have a quiet character then an over the top and brash pen won't suit. 

Luxury:

Aurora Diamond
"The only over 30 carat pen in the world, created by the oldest and most prestigious Italian fountain pen manufacturer, Aurora.The rhodium treated, 18 Kt Solid Gold nib signs this masterpiece."

 

Now I thought I'd add this in from Aurora. It is very OTT but my word is it fun.

 

Mont Blanc Meisterstuck


"Piston fountain pen, 14 K gold nib with rhodium-plated inlay, barrel and cap made of black precious resin inlaid with Montblanc Diamond in cap-top (~0.06 ct.), platinum-plated clip and rings"

 

LĂ©man Bicolor Safran Day Break

A touch of colour for those more flamboyant. the Leman comes in 6 colours but also black and white. 



I'm going to do a post quickly after this with a article from a man called Peter Twydle. He wrote a beautiful piece on choosing a fountain pen that I can just not do justice to and will bow down to his superior knowledge. Please read the next post or click the link for Peter Twydle's choosing a fountain pen.

Street Style 6th March 2012: London

This is a colleague of mine who always dresses impeccably so thought I'd share what he was wearing today. A tan two piece with peak lapel, light blue shirt with white contrasting wide spread collar and brown square end knitted tie. Also has a great pair of Gucci tasselled shoes on. 

 

Let me know what you think and comment below.

Street Style - 6th March 2012: London

 

Had to stop this chap in the street and ask permission to snap him. He was very kind to stop as was rushing for a meeting but took my card so hope to get in touch and ask about him. Not quite my classic taste but looks fantastic on him. Love that charcoal over large lapelled topcoat. Then great colour combination with navy cardigan, striped nautical shirt underneath and a contrasting skinny trouser. Love it and looked very sharp.

Monday, 5 March 2012

Street Style 5th March 2012

 

Blue check shirt, dark navy tie, a black v-neck jumper and lastly a grey cable knit cardigan. Very cold this morning I was too.

Sunday, 4 March 2012

Bespoke Gloves - Chester Jefferies

Just wanted to post a quick mention of these guys. English made bespoke gloves. Have heard good reports from some clients and forums but have yet to take the plunge. I have been emailed asking about this so thought it time to address what my plans are so you can view and decide from what occurs. 

What I will do is a stage by stage post and let you know the result when I do. This will be in the late Summer ready for the Autumn as there is no need at present due to warmer weather but if there is an overwhelming need from the blog audience then will do sooner for you.

 

 

Chester Jefferies:

They specialise in high quality ready made, by request and full bespoke gloves and seem very reasonable in pricing compared to what can be charged for normal department store ranges these days (in my London stores for good brands are at least £25 ($40). CJ gloves seem to range from £10 - £90 approx dependent on range reductions and quality and style. 

So, to explain the ranges as I ahev stated above and pricing a bit more? From my research there are three ranges to know of. 

  1. Ready made: these are the lower priced garments which will have less choice, or none, about size, lining, colour and so on. Very few of these though. Mostly specialist gloves and even then most still have colour choice.
  2. By request: these are ranges normally priced from £30 - £90 and have a very wide array of choices on each glove from colour, lining, size (SM, M, L, XL), and type of leather. Looks very good and the range of glove designs should please even the most picky of people.
  3. Bespoke: CJ charge a one off £20 ($33) amount to create your pattern which they will then keep for all future orders with no charge added each time. This is what I wish to go for at the end of the summer and get a good dress glove in delicious leather and lining so I can test drive them and report back.

Be in mind that CJ do charge a £5 ($9) worldwide delivery fee so take this into account when budgeting.

 

Please get in touch with your experiences and will happily post on blog to inform everyone of your story. Many thanks in advance for this but otherwise I will look forward to trying them out soon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Button Position on Waistcoats

High, low or medium button on a waistcoat?

How you you determine which is wear on you?

 

Button position is generally fashion driven.  So staying classic could be better in the long run but is up to you. I prefer the classic height or a slighty higher button position, or front opening (be careful at these are slighty different with the front opening obviously a 1/2" maybe higher then the top button position) because I am more traditional in dress and always prefer the styles and nuances towards the late 19th and early 20th century. 

So where to judge on position of waistcoat button?

For me the general rule is to find the bottom of your sternum (this can be done by using your finger to feel where the bottom/end of your breastbone is) and use this as your lowest top button position, unless wanted to be trendy then could be further down if the trend is that way inclined. For medium top button position find the general medium spot (this is about 1 1/2" from the bottom of sternum if you are of average height 5' 8" to 6' so please expect more/less if taller/shorter than this). For a high top button position find a postion roughly 1" above that medium point.

 

For an easier although still quite general rule to determine top button position on your waistcoat refer to the picture below. Have drawn lines and suggested lines of sight to gage it against. Is still very general and can't be certain for every body type and height. 

 

So here are the three looks that are not over trendy. 

High button:

This waistcoats looks terrible by the way.  Not how ne should be cut or look. 

 

Classic button:

 

Low Button:

 

 

 

Hope helps.

 

Tailor Dan

Saturday, 3 March 2012

Edward Green & John Lobb shoes

I was asked by a reader about Edward Green and have so far only talked about the shoes I personally provide for clients which is unfair. So thought I would take that question and do a quick post on them and John Lobb.

Both Edward Green and Lobb are English handmade shoe companies. As with most of the finest handmade shoes they are made in the north of England and is still one area of production in Britain that is not out sourced. 

Both Green and Lobb were established in the 19th century and have made shoes for Royalty and stars of stage and screen. 

Edward Green have a very high hand grade shoe that has a aesthetic that has made it a brand that commands very high respect around the world.

 

John Lobb are another handmade shoe company that produce some of the finest footwear in the world. They do 3 ranges of ready to wear, by request (this option allows you to choose styles and colours but the last is predetermined, and their  Bespoke range where your shoes are crafted to your own foot shape and needs.

 

 

Expect the ready to wear in both ranges to set you back anywhere from £600 - £1500 for upper ranges. Lobb's Bespoke collection will be towards the £2500 and beyond.

 

Share what your experiences have been with them and how you have found their after purchase care.

 

Let me know what you think and comment below.

Easy iron and non iron shirts

 

I get asked about the pros and cons of both quite a lot. And the truth is we have evolved into a easy iron consumer market quite rapidly over the last 10 years without much fuss. And they do serve a purpose. They make it easier for the rushed gentleman to launder his shirts and have them looking pretty good thanks to the easy iron process.

My issue is the reason these shirts are easy iron. In 2010 the Government Accountability Office did a study into the effects of easy iron or wrinkle free products. The reason they did this is because there was some evidence for irrational from the effects easy iron has. The resin that forms the coating, which is dipped and then baked on to fabrics before being made into the product needed (in this case shirts), released the chemical Formaldehyde. 

In most cases good washing will treat this but there is no regulation at present for products that will rest against the skin and we are left to trust the companies and manufacturers to self regulate the safety levels of these items. 

A lot of products round the house contains these things, bed linen, baseball caps, drapes, upholstery. Even shampoo may contain it. The problem is things like shirts that are against our skin for most of the day are not labelled for you to see and we still have no idea about long term effects that it may have.

To be honest, I feel that the risk should be reasonably low if you wash thoroughly before you wear but think it is still unknown to most this chemical to skin contact and will not likely soon be changed as to consumer communication protocol. 

It is not just for this reason that I do not done easy iron if avoidable. Mostly I sincerely prefer the fit and ability to style my perfect shirt rather then be told what fashion decides looks and feels good. But it does hold me back from advising gentlemen to buy only these cheaper goods. 

So, make sure you was any new easy iron or wrinkle free shirts, but also pay attention to bed linen and caps as these are rarely washed before contact with skin. 

Lastly, if you get itchy or come up in blisters after contact with your shirts you may be affected by the irritant so would suggest searching for some off the peg easy iron free cottons and see if this helps. 

Or do your body a real favour and get tailored. They are the best and nothing quite feels good enough again when you have finally gotten a well fitted gorgeous feeling shirt against your skin.


Tailor Dan 

 

Friday, 2 March 2012

Welcome Communications Highway

Am now connected up to my eyeballs with social media. You will now be able to see my posts and news on many forums if you are following my tweeter, or connected to my LinkedIn. Did Facebook too but you'll have to buy me some serious cookies to connect to me on that. 

Also have an appointment scheduler up and running as have already been emailed to meet with gents via my blog requested my professional help as a paid expert clothier and wanted to say thanks for your emails and look forward to working with you.

Street Style 2nd March 2012

Just fitted my client in a beautiful new Charcoal roped self stripe, Holland & Sherry 13oz. He's also wearing some Church's black calf shoes. Very trim and elegant. 

Choice of the day - 2nd March 2012

Met with one of my favourite clients today in the city and we're now starting to work on his business casual side of his wardrobe. We went with two looks in the end:

A blue grey wool, silk blend for the summer. This has great versatility as it can cross the device of formal and casual with ease. Pair it with the grey or navy trousers in the picture, which we went for, and you can wear it at conferences, after work dinners/drinks, formal family functions. 

Pair it with a jean, the picture below that, and you have a great summery look that will look great going to the theatre, walking with the family in the country, friends parties and so on.

(The photo from the iPad doesn't do the blue justice. For colour look at the 2nd picture)

 

We also added a great grey sharkskin. My client has a wonderful head of greying hair which suits him down to the ground. And grey wools or flannels and tweeds work wonderfully with the silver foxes of the world and compliment their look so much.

 

 

With most casual jackets you should have them lightly shorter, 1/2" suggested, then your normal suit jacket as it looks much more in proportion with a contrasting trouser. 

Look forward to making these for him and hope to remember to post the results. 

 

Tailor Dan

Thursday, 1 March 2012

Street Style 1st March 2012 - 3: London

 

This is a great street style look for the suave, slimmer gent. Colleague of mine rocking a great 3 piece blue grey wool suit. The waistcoat is slightly short so that that great flash of pink can blaze out from underneath. The front opening of the waistcoat is higher then average making it lean toward trend rather then classic but think it looks fantastic on him. This chap always dresses well, so expect to see more from him, and has great fun with colours and fabrics. Well fitting street style here. 

 

Dinner Jacket Styles (Tuxedo for the stateside gent)

Having a well fitted and tailored DJ is one of the perks of life. I was talking this morning with a client who has only a few events per year that he will need one for but like many gents simply hates the fit and feel of his current off the peg one. And when you get to these events it is nothing short of wonderful when you know that you are looking among the finest dressed there.



This is how It may feel like to be Bond. Not joking! I have two events per year that require a black tie. And every time I wear my wonderfully tailored Dinner Jacket (Tuxedo) I feel like the 007 agent looking suave and luxurious as I approach the convention bar and order....a coke. Not a Martini sadly.

And mostly I am dressed as well as my wife who has spent ages on her outfit. I didn't but it made her so happy that I looked as if I had.
So below are some simply styles that you can do. I know many clients and gents who wish for something more out there but I always advocate having the foundation first. Then branch out once you have your grounding.


The above picture shows more the American style of Tuxedo with the adding of a formal waistcoat. This look is a little dated and am advising most clients stateside that they can really look crisp with just the simply jacket, trouser and bow tie combo. There's a reason why Bond should never wera a waistcoat...it just isn't that cool. But if you wish to please go ahead it isn't badly dressed, I just think you could look much sharper like this:


Isn't that just gorgeous. Something about the simplicity makes the wearer seem much better dressed and sharper. I would still wear a bow tie with the outfit but don't see anything wrong with the adding of a slim-medium width black silk tie.

Styles:
Here are three classic styles. All are wearable and in fashion although the most classic and long lasting is the 2nd jacket model number 31 as it is single breasted and a notch lapel. The double breasted is in fashion and will look killer but may be out of style in 2 years so this is maybe to try after you have the first classic just mentioned.
The peak on model 32 is classic too but can come and go a bit more than the notch lapel ever will so my advice is for the notch first time round. The dinner jacket above has a single breasted peak.


Jacket model 33 shows a shawl lapel. This again is not common so may make your Dinner Jacket (Tuxedo) slightly out of date and as this may need to be worn to all kinds of events then a notch lapel is more versatile.
Model 34 is a white evening jacket and normally worn on cruises and summer events in the states but is rarer in Europe.


And lastly the trousers. Worm as wished but with satin trim down the sides.


Hope helps and do contact with any questions.

Tailor Dan

Street Style 1st March 2012 - Charing Cross, London

Just saw this gent in McDonalds and thought his outfit really worked. He had on an brown ultra suede two piece which was loose from probably where he used to fill it out better but it suited him. What really brought the look together was the shirt and tie. Sage green tie matched the green in that check shirt. Perfect.

Your First Suit Ever

Navy or dark grey. There you go. Done. 

This is actually a tougher prospect to convince gentleman of then styles as most men will give way to an expert regarding fit and style but fight on colour and pattern as we think somethimes a plain coloured suit is boring. 

The main reason having your first suit ever as a plain navy or dark grey is simple. It's so you can wear it as French as needed and to most occasions and events and it will always look in place and never stand out as the only suit you have. 

Benefits of a navy or dark grey:

  • Works well with nearly any shirt and tie colouring
  • Both hide stains well
  • Can be worn to most events if needed including weddings, funerals, formal events, the races, theatre, opera, red carpet events, christenings, job interviews, promotion interviews, board room meetings, press interviews, award ceremonies, etc....
  • Looks classic all the time
  • Will still be in fashion in 10 years time
  • Will not be noticed as your only suit compared to a bold pattern or pinstripe
  • At least one of them will suit everybodys complexion and style

 




 

All classic looking and very professional but can change the appearance totally with a colourful shirt and tie. 

You may notice that I think Daniel Craig looks rather well dressed. I do, but i like his look because he's not a pretty boy model he's rough around the edges like most of us. 

You see, we can all be James Bond if we try.

 

2 button:

Make it a classic two button too. Al the other styles are ok for later years but 3 button comes and goes nd personally looks naff on most guys, the double breasted is for when you have a larger rotation and the 4 button should never see the light of another day. Or night. 2 button will look good in a decade. The others may not. 

 

Hope all has helped. Contact me with any questions. 

 

Tailor Dan